How to Choose the Right T-Shirt Fabric for Your Brand

1. Know your GSM (fabric weight)

GSM means grams per square metre. A 160-180 GSM tee is light and breathable, good for summer or layering. A 220-240 GSM blank is the everyday premium sweet spot — substantial but not heavy. 280 GSM and above gives a structured, heavyweight streetwear feel. Heavier fabric usually feels more expensive, but it also costs more to make and ship.

2. Cotton vs polyester vs blends

100% cotton is soft, breathable and the default for streetwear basics, but it can shrink and fade slightly. Polyester holds colour better and wicks moisture, which makes it ideal for sportswear and sublimation prints. A cotton-poly blend gives durability, lower cost and better shape retention — a common choice for bulk orders and uniforms.

3. Match the fabric to the fit and use

Everyday basics and oversized fits work best in mid-weight cotton. Performance and teamwear lean towards polyester or blends. For a premium heavyweight line, pick combed cotton at 240 GSM and above. Always match the fabric to how and where the customer will actually wear it.

4. Hand feel: combed vs carded

Combed cotton removes short fibres, giving a smoother, softer hand feel and fewer pills. Carded cotton is cheaper but rougher. If you are building a premium brand, spend the small extra on combed cotton — customers notice the difference immediately.

5. How fabric choice affects cost

Fabric is usually the biggest cost in a tee. Heavier GSM and combed cotton raise the price per piece. Polyester and blends bring it down. Before you order, decide the price position of your brand, then pick the lightest fabric that still meets your quality bar.

6. Order samples before bulk

The cheapest way to avoid a production mistake is to order a few sample blanks first. Feel the weight, check the fit and wash it once. A sample costs a fraction of what a full production error would.